What are some of the good Marshall amps that have 2 channels, tube amps that don’t cost a wallet full of cash? I don’t have a price range at the moment, because I plan on working some overtime to get a nice amp but I don’t need anything extraordinary. I mainly play blues and classic rock (a little heavy metal once in a while). The amp I have right now, I need to turn up loud to get a good distortion sound from it’s channel 2 (Traynor TRM30 with reverb). What would give a bedroom rocker a good clean channel, and 2nd channel that doesn’t need to be cranked up to have a good distortion? Thanks for the suggestions, _Bigred

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Any of the smaller combo’s with a master volume will work pretty good. i have a DSL 401. It’s been a great amp very versatile and sounds really good. Plugged into a 4X12 it sounds excellent. Doesn’t have to be cranked to get a decent tone. Of course cranked is always better. =) It’s gonna be for sell soon.. I’m getting a Mesa or Rivera or something like that to add to my collection. I have 4 other Marshall’s so the DSL combo has got to go. The JCM 600’s were allright too.  The JCM 800 combo’s were great but I think you had to have them pretty loud to get the raunch happening. Hope this helps, Guitpicker,

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> What are some of the good Marshall amps that have 2 channels, tube amps > that don’t cost a > wallet full of cash? > I don’t have a price range at the moment, because I plan on working some > overtime to get a nice amp but > I don’t need anything extraordinary. > I mainly play blues and classic rock (a little heavy metal once in a > while). > The amp I have right now, I need to turn up loud to get a good distortion > sound from it’s channel 2 (Traynor TRM30 with reverb). What would give a > bedroom rocker a good clean channel, and 2nd channel that doesn’t need to > be cranked up to have a good distortion? > Thanks for the suggestions, > _Bigred

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thanks for the feedback Scott, I’ll have to go check them out and how things go. Keep Rockin’ _Bigred

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Any of the smaller combo’s with a master volume will work pretty good. i > have a DSL 401. It’s been a great amp very versatile and sounds really > good. Plugged into a 4X12 it sounds excellent. Doesn’t have to be cranked > to get a decent tone. Of course cranked is always better. =) > It’s gonna be for sell soon.. I’m getting a Mesa or Rivera or something > like that to add to my collection. I have 4 other Marshall’s so the DSL > combo has got to go. > The JCM 600’s were allright too.  The JCM 800 combo’s were great but I > think you had to have them pretty loud to get the raunch happening. > Hope this helps, > Guitpicker, > What are some of the good Marshall amps that have 2 channels, tube amps > that don’t cost a > wallet full of cash? > I don’t have a price range at the moment, because I plan on working some > overtime to get a nice amp but > I don’t need anything extraordinary. > I mainly play blues and classic rock (a little heavy metal once in a > while). > The amp I have right now, I need to turn up loud to get a good distortion > sound from it’s channel 2 (Traynor TRM30 with reverb). What would give a > bedroom rocker a good clean channel, and 2nd channel that doesn’t need to > be cranked up to have a good distortion? > Thanks for the suggestions, > _Bigred

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> What are some of the good Marshall amps that have 2 channels, tube amps that > don’t cost a wallet full of cash?

  None ..  And at bedroom levels ?  Even fewer than that ! Front end a USA Made Mini Marshall Kalamazoo Model 1 7w  typically found for $60 .. with a Tube Screamer and Delay  and your set to go.  Find a original Tube Screamer with the  PNP transistors … Pure Plexi bliss ! The newer TS9 re-issues have  NPN transistors made in Japan and have lost the  warm, natural  over drive because they cancel odd harmonics in the 5th order. You can also  tell the original ones by the Lime Green tint color than the newer Hermit The Frog Green.

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> What are some of the good Marshall amps that have 2 channels, tube amps that > don’t cost a > wallet full of cash?

First, you used two words in the same sentence, that doesn’t exist in the real world. Good, and cheap. So, you want a polished turd. > I don’t have a price range at the moment, because I plan on working some > overtime to get a nice amp but > I don’t need anything extraordinary.

Extraordinary would not be a polished turd. Meaning most amps made pre 1990. > I mainly play blues and classic rock (a little heavy metal once in a while). > The amp I have right now, I need to turn up loud to get a good distortion > sound from it’s channel 2 (Traynor TRM30 with reverb). What would give a > bedroom rocker a good clean channel, and 2nd channel that doesn’t need to be > cranked up to have a good distortion?

A master volume and an MXR micro amp, your needs are met. Regards, Rich Koerner, Time Electronics. http://www.timeelect.com Specialists in Live Sound FOH Engineering,        Music & Studio Production, Vintage Instruments, and Tube Amplifiers

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> First, you used two words in the same sentence, that doesn’t exist in the > real world. > Good, and cheap.

You’re wrong. See: The Honda Civic. An Ice Cream Cone. A NYC Subway Token. The prix fixe meal at La Boulangerie in the 29th Arrondissement.

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> First, you used two words in the same sentence, that doesn’t exist in the > real world. > Good, and cheap. > You’re wrong. > See: > The Honda Civic. > An Ice Cream Cone. > A NYC Subway Token. > The prix fixe meal at La Boulangerie in the 29th Arrondissement.

So you take your Honda Civic to go get your Ice Cream Cone, and ride the subway all the way to the La Boulangerie for a snack meal. How nice. Answer me this. How many trips, to a gig and back, does it take a Honda Civic to move two Marshall stacks to, and back from a gig. Remember the gig doesn’t pay enough to rent a U Haul trailer. Regards, Rich Koerner, Time Electronics. http://www.timeelect.com Specialists in Live Sound FOH Engineering,        Music & Studio Production, Vintage Instruments, and Tube Amplifiers

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What’s the benefit of splitting an amp into a head and speaker cabinet?  Simply more power?

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> What’s the benefit of splitting an amp into a head and speaker cabinet? >  Simply more power?

Easier to carry? You can try other speaker cabinets? You hate it when collectors pay big bucks for things that are cut in half? Chris

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> > What’s the benefit of splitting an amp into a head and speaker cabinet? >  Simply more power? > Easier to carry? > You can try other speaker cabinets? > You hate it when collectors pay big bucks for things that are cut in > half? > Chris

Sorry I meant " You hate it when collectors pay big bucks for things that are not cut in half?" CHris

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> What’s the benefit of splitting an amp into a head and speaker cabinet? >  Simply more power?

Two reasons for me: 1) It fits into my Honda Civic. 2) I can always buy more cabinets later when I finally get to play at Madison Square Garden.

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So, you guys are saying that the tubes are more important than the speakers?  Is that why a huge set of speakers in a cabinet are $300, but the little head sitting on top of it is $2,300?

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> What’s the benefit of splitting an amp into a head and speaker cabinet? > Simply more power?

Have you ever hauled around a Twin Reverb, or Super Reverb Combo? If it is a larger set-up it is much easier to haul if you cut the weight in half. See ya, John

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> So, you guys are saying that the tubes are more important than the > speakers?  Is that why a huge set of speakers in a cabinet are $300, > but the little head sitting on top of it is $2,300?

Mmm they are but I don’t think anyone said that. Chris

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>>What’s the benefit of splitting an amp into a head and speaker cabinet? >Simply more power? > Have you ever hauled around a Twin Reverb, or Super Reverb Combo? If it is a > larger set-up it is much easier to haul if you cut the weight in half. > See ya, > John

There’s also the side benefit of isolation of speaker cab vibration from the electronic components. Of course, you have to set the head on something *other* than the speaker cab to realize that advantage. As far as whether tubes or speakers are more important: If either are crap, so will be the tone!!! My personal preference when spending money would be towards high quality speakers. You can get budget brand tubes that are ‘adequate’ but even a crappy amp sounds better through really good, or well selected speakers. Just my 2

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->>>>>Hi.  I have a ‘90 Civic and the trailing arm bushings are toast.  Local >>>>>dealer wants $60 plus change plus tax each.  Anyone know of a less >>>>expensive >>>>>source for these? >>>>>Thanks, >>>>>WW >>>>I’m curious as well. Also, how do you replace them? What tools would >>>come in >>>>handy? >>>>Thanks! >>>>John >>>just take them to someone with a bearing press.  if they’re any good, >>>it’s an easy job.  i use a motorcycle machine shop – much more picky & >>>precision oriented. >>Can I do it myself without a bearing press? I’m sure I can cut the >old ones >>out somehow with a knife or partially cut them to make one side >weaker so I >>can take out the old bushing. Can I put the new one without a bearing >>presss? Maybe put some grease on it, and somehow push it in? Would a >>vise >>work and have some kind of rod in there that pushes on the bushing? >>Never replaced a bushing in my life and my control arm ones are going >out… >>will have to get it done soon. >>Thanks! >>John >no, you need the tool.  and the last thing you want is grease.  the >bushings are only held in by friction – if you reduce that, you’re in >trouble.  similarly, grease rots rubber… >trust me, i’m a big d.i.y. guy.  if you could reasonably do this job >without the tools, i’d be there but this is not one of those occasions. >last time i had it done, it cost me $60.  quick & cheap.  just be grateful >you’re not paying to replace the whole arms like it says in the manual or >what the dealer would do for you.

 > In the Helms book I have says to use sillicone grease on bushings.  > only the bushings that have relative sliding motions like on the sway bars.  "fixed" bushings like the trailing arm pivots shouldn’t have any, particularly not on the steel donut outer which is the interference fit.   you are right however that silicone /does/ work with rubber, all except that silglyde stuff.  it /says/ it’s silicone, but it gets all sticky & gummy in no time.  utter utter garbage – /never/ use it.

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In the Helms book I have says to use sillicone grease on bushings.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->>>>Hi.  I have a ‘90 Civic and the trailing arm bushings are toast.  Local >>>>dealer wants $60 plus change plus tax each.  Anyone know of a less >>>expensive >>>>source for these? >>>>Thanks, >>>>WW >> > I’m curious as well. Also, how do you replace them? What tools would >>come in >> > handy? >> > Thanks! >> > John >>just take them to someone with a bearing press.  if they’re any good, >>it’s an easy job.  i use a motorcycle machine shop – much more picky & >>precision oriented. > Can I do it myself without a bearing press? I’m sure I can cut the > old ones > out somehow with a knife or partially cut them to make one side > weaker so I > can take out the old bushing. Can I put the new one without a bearing > presss? Maybe put some grease on it, and somehow push it in? Would a > vise > work and have some kind of rod in there that pushes on the bushing? > Never replaced a bushing in my life and my control arm ones are going > out… > will have to get it done soon. > Thanks! > John > no, you need the tool.  and the last thing you want is grease.  the > bushings are only held in by friction – if you reduce that, you’re in > trouble.  similarly, grease rots rubber… > trust me, i’m a big d.i.y. guy.  if you could reasonably do this job > without the tools, i’d be there but this is not one of those occasions. > last time i had it done, it cost me $60.  quick & cheap.  just be grateful > you’re not paying to replace the whole arms like it says in the manual or > what the dealer would do for you.

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Can I do it myself without a bearing press? I’m sure I can cut the old ones out somehow with a knife or partially cut them to make one side weaker so I can take out the old bushing. Can I put the new one without a bearing presss? Maybe put some grease on it, and somehow push it in? Would a vise work and have some kind of rod in there that pushes on the bushing? Never replaced a bushing in my life and my control arm ones are going out… will have to get it done soon. Thanks! John

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->>Hi.  I have a ‘90 Civic and the trailing arm bushings are toast.  Local >>dealer wants $60 plus change plus tax each.  Anyone know of a less > expensive >>source for these? >>Thanks, >>WW >  > I’m curious as well. Also, how do you replace them? What tools would > come in >  > handy? >  > Thanks! >  > John > just take them to someone with a bearing press.  if they’re any good, > it’s an easy job.  i use a motorcycle machine shop – much more picky & > precision oriented.

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->>>Hi.  I have a ‘90 Civic and the trailing arm bushings are toast.  Local >>>dealer wants $60 plus change plus tax each.  Anyone know of a less >>expensive >>>source for these? >>>Thanks, >>>WW > > I’m curious as well. Also, how do you replace them? What tools would >come in > > handy? > > Thanks! > > John >just take them to someone with a bearing press.  if they’re any good, >it’s an easy job.  i use a motorcycle machine shop – much more picky & >precision oriented.

 > Can I do it myself without a bearing press? I’m sure I can cut the old ones  > out somehow with a knife or partially cut them to make one side weaker so I  > can take out the old bushing. Can I put the new one without a bearing  > presss? Maybe put some grease on it, and somehow push it in? Would a vise  > work and have some kind of rod in there that pushes on the bushing?  >  > Never replaced a bushing in my life and my control arm ones are going out…  > will have to get it done soon.  >  > Thanks!  >  > John  > no, you need the tool.  and the last thing you want is grease.  the bushings are only held in by friction – if you reduce that, you’re in trouble.  similarly, grease rots rubber… trust me, i’m a big d.i.y. guy.  if you could reasonably do this job without the tools, i’d be there but this is not one of those occasions.   last time i had it done, it cost me $60.  quick & cheap.  just be grateful you’re not paying to replace the whole arms like it says in the manual or what the dealer would do for you.

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http://www.cheapesthondaparts.com/

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hi.  I have a ‘90 Civic and the trailing arm bushings are toast.  Local > dealer wants $60 plus change plus tax each.  Anyone know of a less > expensive source for these? > Thanks, > WW

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I’m curious as well. Also, how do you replace them? What tools would come in handy? Thanks! John

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hi.  I have a ‘90 Civic and the trailing arm bushings are toast.  Local > dealer wants $60 plus change plus tax each.  Anyone know of a less expensive > source for these? > Thanks, > WW

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->Hi.  I have a ‘90 Civic and the trailing arm bushings are toast.  Local >dealer wants $60 plus change plus tax each.  Anyone know of a less > expensive >source for these? >Thanks, >WW

 > I’m curious as well. Also, how do you replace them? What tools would come in  > handy?  >  > Thanks!  >  > John just take them to someone with a bearing press.  if they’re any good, it’s an easy job.  i use a motorcycle machine shop – much more picky & precision oriented.

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Hi.  I have a ‘90 Civic and the trailing arm bushings are toast.  Local dealer wants $60 plus change plus tax each.  Anyone know of a less expensive source for these? Thanks, WW

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> Hi.  I have a ‘90 Civic and the trailing arm bushings are toast.  Local > dealer wants $60 plus change plus tax each.  Anyone know of a less expensive > source for these? > Thanks, > WW

google this group for the part numbers, then order from hondaautomotiveparts.com.

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1991 Integra, manual tranny. Question 1: How high does the car need to be off the ground before you can drop the tranny and roll it out from under the car? Question 2: If I have access to an engine crane, and the tranny is already out, can I remove the rear engine mount without dropping the crossmember? If I hoist the engine instead, does the exhaust need to be disconnected from the manifold first? Question 3: When you remove the driveshafts to remove the transmssion, do you need to also remove the shafts from the wheel hubs, or can you leave them connected at that end? Question 4: Can a 5" bench vise be used to press control arm bushings out of and into the front lower control arms? Thanks. — TeGGeR

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hi group, >  I replaced the spark plug of my 2000 civic with DENSO: KJ16CR-L11 >  spark plugs. I forgot to adjust the spark plug gap and fitted the >  spark plugs as I got it. > Leave them alone. They’re already pregapped to 1.1mm (.040"), which is what > the "L11" means. > I can’t find what Denso’s codes mean, but if they’re platinum or > iridium coated, gapping the is a bad idea. The plating is thin > and easily damaged by forcing a gapping tool between the elctrodes.

While using a gapping tool on a platinum plug isn’t recommended, I find that the platinum points on a Denso plug are rather thick and durable. > Spark plugs are made to tolerances down to a thousandth of an > inch. Why does everybody figure the makers suddenly got sloppy > with one single dimension? The only way the gap is going to be > off by any meaningful amount is if the plug gets dropped with > the protective cap removed.

The manufacturer’s typically recommend that the gap be checked before installation except for platinum/iridium plugs.  They warn against it, but have regapping instructions which state that a round gapping tool should not be used. <http://densoiridium.com/installationguide.php> BTW – Denso now makes a single-tip Iridium plug called "Iridium Power".  It’s their standard U-groove ground electrode with an iridium center electrode.  They still have their "long-life" iridium plugs.

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Thanks a lot TeGGer and everybody. That helped a lot, SB

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hi group, >  I replaced the spark plug of my 2000 civic with DENSO: KJ16CR-L11 >  spark plugs. I forgot to adjust the spark plug gap and fitted the >  spark plugs as I got it. > Leave them alone. They’re already pregapped to 1.1mm (.040"), which is what > the "L11" means. > I can’t find what Denso’s codes mean, but if they’re platinum or iridium > coated, gapping the is a bad idea. The plating is thin and easily damaged > by forcing a gapping tool between the elctrodes. > Spark plugs are made to tolerances down to a thousandth of an inch. Why > does everybody figure the makers suddenly got sloppy with one single > dimension? The only way the gap is going to be off by any meaningful amount > is if the plug gets dropped with the protective cap removed. > — > TeGGeR

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->>>>>should i buy castrol or penzoil or valvoline oil. Which brand >>>>>of oil do u >>>>>people think is good. >>>>I use Pennzoil 10W30 in the MDX, change every 4-6,000 miles. >>>>If I switched to synthethic, I’d use Mobil One 0-W20.  Yes, >>>>it’s showing better oil test numbers than 5W20. >>>Mobil is no longer marketing Mobil 1 0W-20.  They still may be making >>>a 0W-20 for Honda (for the hybrids).  However – there’s now a Mobil 1 >>>5W-20 on the market.  Also – Mobil’s datasheets show that Mobil 1 >>>5W-30 is awfully close to being a 5W-20. >>>I suppose the problem some people are having with the "conventional" >>>5W-20 oils are that they seem to include short-lived anti-wear >>>additives to make it protect adequately.  Mobil 1 probably doesn’t >>>need as much and will maintain its antiwear properties longer. >>>>If you use 5W20 dino oil, as recommended by Honda, abandon their oil >>>>change interval.  Testing shows this oil is shot at 3,000 miles. >>>What the heck is "dino" oil these days?  Many "conventional" oils use >>>higher performance "Group II" base.  Some may even be semi-synthetic >>>(even without being labelled as such), although the definition of >>>"synthetic" is a but murky these days.  Ford’s Motorcraft 5W-20 is >>>labelled as being "semi-synthetic", although it’s unclear who makes >>>it for them (or if they change suppliers often). >>that motorcraft stuff is abysmal.  i was initially attracted to the price >>& the "semi-synthetic" label, but all my seals started leaking badly >>within a few hundred miles.  as in the main seal was leaking onto the >>exhaust so bad you’d leave a smoke trail through the car park.  the motor >>started getting real rattly after about 2500 miles too.  i’m now back on >>castrol & the leaking has all but stopped.  89 civic. >  > So you take an 89 Civic and just put in synthetic?  So I guess the > fact that >  > your seals are bad in the first place doesn’t really matter to you.  The >  > only thing synthetic did was clean your engine and seals of crud that > had >  > accumulated and now they are leaking.  Put the old dino oil back in and >  > hopefully it will sludge up enough again to seal the engine up for you. > sorry to burst your little bubble, but castrol is semi-synthetic too. > it simply has a much better base & superior additive package than that > ford garbage.  that’s also why it doesn’t leave the engine rattling like > a bag of nails.  that ok for you?

What the heck is "synthetic" these days?  I’m getting the feeling that in order to get decent performance out of a 5W-20, even the so-called "conventional" 5W-20 oils are using some Group III or PAO base oils. As for Castrol – they’re rumored to used older "Group I" base oil for most of the Castrol GTX lineup, while most others have gone to more advanced "Group II".  Pennzoil calls their base oil "PureBase", Chevron uses "IsoSyn", while others just say "group II".

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>should i buy castrol or penzoil or valvoline oil. Which brand of oil do u >people think is good.

I usually buy the brand name oil that is on sale and meets the manufacturers recommendations.  I never had an oil related problem following this procedure. Alex

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> In article

>should i buy castrol or penzoil or valvoline oil. Which brand >of oil do u people think is good. > I usually buy the brand name oil that is on sale and meets the > manufacturers recommendations.  I never had an oil related > problem following this procedure.

I took my car to my favorite Japanese car specialist today.  For years they’ve had a prominent Castrol GTX sign and said that they’ve used it.  However – I saw their shipment of Honda supplies stacked up against a wall.  It included several cases of Honda Z1 ATF and Honda branded 5W-20 motor oil. I understand that American Honda’s oil supplier is Mobil.  I don’t know if it’s really a "specialty formula" for Honda.  I rented a Mazda 6 last Dec from Hertz.  It included a sticker from a quickie lube place saying that the last change was performed with Mobil 5W-20.

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->>>>>>should i buy castrol or penzoil or valvoline oil. Which brand >>>>>>of oil do u >>>>>>people think is good. >>>>>I use Pennzoil 10W30 in the MDX, change every 4-6,000 miles. >>>>>If I switched to synthethic, I’d use Mobil One 0-W20.  Yes, >>>>>it’s showing better oil test numbers than 5W20. >>>>Mobil is no longer marketing Mobil 1 0W-20.  They still may be > making >>>>a 0W-20 for Honda (for the hybrids).  However – there’s now a > Mobil 1 >>>>5W-20 on the market.  Also – Mobil’s datasheets show that Mobil 1 >>>>5W-30 is awfully close to being a 5W-20. >>>>I suppose the problem some people are having with the > "conventional" >>>>5W-20 oils are that they seem to include short-lived anti-wear >>>>additives to make it protect adequately.  Mobil 1 probably doesn’t >>>>need as much and will maintain its antiwear properties longer. >>>>>If you use 5W20 dino oil, as recommended by Honda, abandon their > oil >>>>>change interval.  Testing shows this oil is shot at 3,000 miles. >>>>What the heck is "dino" oil these days?  Many "conventional" oils > use >>>>higher performance "Group II" base.  Some may even be > semi-synthetic >>>>(even without being labelled as such), although the definition of >>>>"synthetic" is a but murky these days.  Ford’s Motorcraft 5W-20 is >>>>labelled as being "semi-synthetic", although it’s unclear who > makes >>>>it for them (or if they change suppliers often). >>>that motorcraft stuff is abysmal.  i was initially attracted to the > price >>>& the "semi-synthetic" label, but all my seals started leaking > badly >>>within a few hundred miles.  as in the main seal was leaking onto > the >>>exhaust so bad you’d leave a smoke trail through the car park.  the > motor >>>started getting real rattly after about 2500 miles too.  i’m now > back on >>>castrol & the leaking has all but stopped.  89 civic. > > So you take an 89 Civic and just put in synthetic?  So I guess the >fact that > > your seals are bad in the first place doesn’t really matter to > you.  The > > only thing synthetic did was clean your engine and seals of crud > that >had > > accumulated and now they are leaking.  Put the old dino oil back > in and > > hopefully it will sludge up enough again to seal the engine up for > you. >sorry to burst your little bubble, but castrol is semi-synthetic too. >it simply has a much better base & superior additive package than > that >ford garbage.  that’s also why it doesn’t leave the engine rattling > like >a bag of nails.  that ok for you? > What the heck is "synthetic" these days?  I’m getting the feeling that > in order to get decent performance out of a 5W-20, even the so-called > "conventional" 5W-20 oils are using some Group III or PAO base oils. > As for Castrol – they’re rumored to used older "Group I" base oil for > most of the Castrol GTX lineup, while most others have gone to more > advanced "Group II".  Pennzoil calls their base oil "PureBase", Chevron > uses "IsoSyn", while others just say "group II".

good observations.  the only thing we know for sure is that these words are the product of the marketing department, not the lab. while something like castrol gtx may not be the best of the best, from my viewpoint, any oil that can clean the crud out of old engines like so many of the clunkers i’ve had leaving them looking pretty much deposit free, any oil that does not leave your engine sounding like an old tin can being kicked around by a couple of kids, any oil that does not make an old motor leak like a marine oil spill disaster, has /got/ to be worth serious consideration.

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> What the heck is "synthetic" these days?  I’m getting the feeling that > in order to get decent performance out of a 5W-20, even the so-called > "conventional" 5W-20 oils are using some Group III or PAO base oils. > As for Castrol – they’re rumored to used older "Group I" base oil for > most of the Castrol GTX lineup, while most others have gone to more > advanced "Group II".  Pennzoil calls their base oil "PureBase", Chevron > uses "IsoSyn", while others just say "group II". > good observations.  the only thing we know for sure is that these words > are the product of the marketing department, not the lab. > while something like castrol gtx may not be the best of the best, from > my viewpoint, any oil that can clean the crud out of old engines like so > many of the clunkers i’ve had leaving them looking pretty much deposit > free, any oil that does not leave your engine sounding like an old tin > can being kicked around by a couple of kids, any oil that does not make > an old motor leak like a marine oil spill disaster, has /got/ to be > worth serious consideration.

I used to only use Castrol over a decade ago when I was driving an Old rear drive Cutlass Supreme V8 (when all 4 barrel opened up on that carburetor, that car could chase down just about anything on 4 wheels). So, the engine was in great shape, event though the rest of the car was quickly disintegrating. That was awhile ago and the Castrol might have been good for the older engine, but my comparatively newer 98 Civic runs just as well on the Mobel 1 (230,000km of aggressive driving and no rattles on cold startup). In the case of Jim’s 89 Civic, the Castrol might be the better choice then the Mobel-1, since the older engine (with loose seals) might have hard time retaining it… Pars

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->>>>should i buy castrol or penzoil or valvoline oil. Which brand >>>>of oil do u >>>>people think is good. >>>I use Pennzoil 10W30 in the MDX, change every 4-6,000 miles. >>>If I switched to synthethic, I’d use Mobil One 0-W20.  Yes, >>>it’s showing better oil test numbers than 5W20. >>Mobil is no longer marketing Mobil 1 0W-20.  They still may be making >>a 0W-20 for Honda (for the hybrids).  However – there’s now a Mobil 1 >>5W-20 on the market.  Also – Mobil’s datasheets show that Mobil 1 >>5W-30 is awfully close to being a 5W-20. >>I suppose the problem some people are having with the "conventional" >>5W-20 oils are that they seem to include short-lived anti-wear >>additives to make it protect adequately.  Mobil 1 probably doesn’t >>need as much and will maintain its antiwear properties longer. >>>If you use 5W20 dino oil, as recommended by Honda, abandon their oil >>>change interval.  Testing shows this oil is shot at 3,000 miles. >>What the heck is "dino" oil these days?  Many "conventional" oils use >>higher performance "Group II" base.  Some may even be semi-synthetic >>(even without being labelled as such), although the definition of >>"synthetic" is a but murky these days.  Ford’s Motorcraft 5W-20 is >>labelled as being "semi-synthetic", although it’s unclear who makes >>it for them (or if they change suppliers often). >that motorcraft stuff is abysmal.  i was initially attracted to the price >& the "semi-synthetic" label, but all my seals started leaking badly >within a few hundred miles.  as in the main seal was leaking onto the >exhaust so bad you’d leave a smoke trail through the car park.  the motor >started getting real rattly after about 2500 miles too.  i’m now back on >castrol & the leaking has all but stopped.  89 civic.

 > So you take an 89 Civic and just put in synthetic?  So I guess the fact that  > your seals are bad in the first place doesn’t really matter to you.  The  > only thing synthetic did was clean your engine and seals of crud that had  > accumulated and now they are leaking.  Put the old dino oil back in and  > hopefully it will sludge up enough again to seal the engine up for you.  >  > sorry to burst your little bubble, but castrol is semi-synthetic too. it simply has a much better base & superior additive package than that ford garbage.  that’s also why it doesn’t leave the engine rattling like a bag of nails.  that ok for you?

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So you take an 89 Civic and just put in synthetic?  So I guess the fact that your seals are bad in the first place doesn’t really matter to you.  The only thing synthetic did was clean your engine and seals of crud that had accumulated and now they are leaking.  Put the old dino oil back in and hopefully it will sludge up enough again to seal the engine up for you.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->>>should i buy castrol or penzoil or valvoline oil. Which brand >>>of oil do u >>>people think is good. >>I use Pennzoil 10W30 in the MDX, change every 4-6,000 miles. >>If I switched to synthethic, I’d use Mobil One 0-W20.  Yes, >>it’s showing better oil test numbers than 5W20. > Mobil is no longer marketing Mobil 1 0W-20.  They still may be making > a 0W-20 for Honda (for the hybrids).  However – there’s now a Mobil 1 > 5W-20 on the market.  Also – Mobil’s datasheets show that Mobil 1 > 5W-30 is awfully close to being a 5W-20. > I suppose the problem some people are having with the "conventional" > 5W-20 oils are that they seem to include short-lived anti-wear > additives to make it protect adequately.  Mobil 1 probably doesn’t > need as much and will maintain its antiwear properties longer. >>If you use 5W20 dino oil, as recommended by Honda, abandon their oil >>change interval.  Testing shows this oil is shot at 3,000 miles. > What the heck is "dino" oil these days?  Many "conventional" oils use > higher performance "Group II" base.  Some may even be semi-synthetic > (even without being labelled as such), although the definition of > "synthetic" is a but murky these days.  Ford’s Motorcraft 5W-20 is > labelled as being "semi-synthetic", although it’s unclear who makes > it for them (or if they change suppliers often). > that motorcraft stuff is abysmal.  i was initially attracted to the price > & the "semi-synthetic" label, but all my seals started leaking badly > within a few hundred miles.  as in the main seal was leaking onto the > exhaust so bad you’d leave a smoke trail through the car park.  the motor > started getting real rattly after about 2500 miles too.  i’m now back on > castrol & the leaking has all but stopped.  89 civic.

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should i buy castrol or penzoil or valvoline oil. Which brand of oil do u people think is good.

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Mobil 1 full synthetic

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> should i buy castrol or penzoil or valvoline oil. Which brand of oil do u > people think is good.

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> should i buy castrol or penzoil or valvoline oil. Which brand of oil do u > people think is good.

I use Pennzoil 10W30 in the MDX, change every 4-6,000 miles. If I switched to synthethic, I’d use Mobil One 0-W20.  Yes, it’s showing better oil test numbers than 5W20. If you use 5W20 dino oil, as recommended by Honda, abandon their oil change interval.  Testing shows this oil is shot at 3,000 miles.

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Where did you find that info?  I would be very interested in seeing it! t

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> Where did you find that info?  I would be very > interested in seeing it!

Probably from used oil analysis.  UOA can test for wear particles, contamination, and viscosity loss/gain.  If an oil is shot, sometimes the VI improvers shear down and no longer provide adequate protection.  In other cases the oil excessively thickens to the point where engine parts can be oil starved at startup.

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> > should i buy castrol or penzoil or valvoline oil. Which brand > of oil do u > people think is good. > I use Pennzoil 10W30 in the MDX, change every 4-6,000 miles. > If I switched to synthethic, I’d use Mobil One 0-W20.  Yes, > it’s showing better oil test numbers than 5W20.

Mobil is no longer marketing Mobil 1 0W-20.  They still may be making a 0W-20 for Honda (for the hybrids).  However – there’s now a Mobil 1 5W-20 on the market.  Also – Mobil’s datasheets show that Mobil 1 5W-30 is awfully close to being a 5W-20. I suppose the problem some people are having with the "conventional" 5W-20 oils are that they seem to include short-lived anti-wear additives to make it protect adequately.  Mobil 1 probably doesn’t need as much and will maintain its antiwear properties longer. > If you use 5W20 dino oil, as recommended by Honda, abandon their oil > change interval.  Testing shows this oil is shot at 3,000 miles.

What the heck is "dino" oil these days?  Many "conventional" oils use higher performance "Group II" base.  Some may even be semi-synthetic (even without being labelled as such), although the definition of "synthetic" is a but murky these days.  Ford’s Motorcraft 5W-20 is labelled as being "semi-synthetic", although it’s unclear who makes it for them (or if they change suppliers often).

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->>should i buy castrol or penzoil or valvoline oil. Which brand >>of oil do u >>people think is good. >I use Pennzoil 10W30 in the MDX, change every 4-6,000 miles. >If I switched to synthethic, I’d use Mobil One 0-W20.  Yes, >it’s showing better oil test numbers than 5W20. > Mobil is no longer marketing Mobil 1 0W-20.  They still may be making > a 0W-20 for Honda (for the hybrids).  However – there’s now a Mobil 1 > 5W-20 on the market.  Also – Mobil’s datasheets show that Mobil 1 > 5W-30 is awfully close to being a 5W-20. > I suppose the problem some people are having with the "conventional" > 5W-20 oils are that they seem to include short-lived anti-wear > additives to make it protect adequately.  Mobil 1 probably doesn’t > need as much and will maintain its antiwear properties longer. >If you use 5W20 dino oil, as recommended by Honda, abandon their oil >change interval.  Testing shows this oil is shot at 3,000 miles. > What the heck is "dino" oil these days?  Many "conventional" oils use > higher performance "Group II" base.  Some may even be semi-synthetic > (even without being labelled as such), although the definition of > "synthetic" is a but murky these days.  Ford’s Motorcraft 5W-20 is > labelled as being "semi-synthetic", although it’s unclear who makes > it for them (or if they change suppliers often).

that motorcraft stuff is abysmal.  i was initially attracted to the price & the "semi-synthetic" label, but all my seals started leaking badly within a few hundred miles.  as in the main seal was leaking onto the exhaust so bad you’d leave a smoke trail through the car park.  the motor started getting real rattly after about 2500 miles too.  i’m now back on castrol & the leaking has all but stopped.  89 civic.

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>> That was related as a working solution by someone. > I don’t want to burn to CD, though.  Even CD-RW seems like a silly extra > step to me.  I like my NetMD, and I bought it just before iPod came out, > but it seems to be totally abandoned by Sony. > i was under the impression that MD was dead the minute CD burners came > available, in 98 or so. hell, even DAT is dead, unless youre a > professional recording person.

I hadn’t thought about DAT or any "large" minidisc player. I considered an MP3-capable portable CD player, a solid-state RAM MP3 player of about 256MB, and the MiniDisc.  The MiniDisc is a lot smaller than CD, with disks about 160MB, five hours of the Sony format.  The MP3 player is smaller still, and I presumed I would periodically download a fresh 256MB, just like I swap minidiscs. I don’t consider a standard writable audio CDROM a substitute, because of playing time limitations. Portable MD is reduced to a niche machine, but the support for it is sorely lacking.  The first iPod probably made it a poor choice, and the Mini-iPod makes it almost obsolete.   — — Clarence A Dold – Hidden Valley (Lake County) CA USA  38.8,-122.5

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> > That was related as a working solution by someone. > I don’t want to burn to CD, though.  Even CD-RW seems like a silly extra > step to me.  I like my NetMD, and I bought it just before iPod came out, > but it seems to be totally abandoned by Sony. > i was under the impression that MD was dead the minute CD burners came > available, in 98 or so. hell, even DAT is dead, unless youre a > professional recording person.

DAT certainly has limited appeal these days. MD is still alive, though. With he current models you can copy MP3 files to the MD as well as using it with the older ATRAC compression. The capacity of one MD is up to 1 GB. The problem remains that if you have a player that requires plain old MP3 files, you don’t have many options aside from free downloading. It is actually kind of funny, the recording industry has pushed so hard for encryption and digital rights management that the only viable option for many is to steal music. A very modest collection of Honda tech info can be found at: http://www.geocities.com/ng_randolph

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> That was related as a working solution by someone. > I don’t want to burn to CD, though.  Even CD-RW seems like a silly extra > step to me.  I like my NetMD, and I bought it just before iPod came out, > but it seems to be totally abandoned by Sony.

i was under the impression that MD was dead the minute CD burners came available, in 98 or so. hell, even DAT is dead, unless youre a professional recording person.

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> > players etc., you get all sorts of license issues. The biggest joke is > the Napster subscription where you can download as much music as you > like. Once you stop paying the monthly fees, the music you already > downloaded will expire! > any ways around that?

There are programs out there (like FreeMe) that will remove the draconian DRM (Digital rights management) from songs that you have the license file for. Potentially you could use this program to remove the copy protection before it expires, except I don’t know if Napster uses DRM or some other rights management system.

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> > <RANT> > At less than $1 / song, I’d be very happy to pay for music if it didn’t > come with all sorts of hassles. If I buy a CD I can bring it anywhere I > … > </RANT> > I bought one iTunes song.  Then I couldn’t figure out how to get it onto my > Sony NetMD discs, which is about the only device I use for playing music. > Sony changed music services a couple of times, and I’ve never bought a song > from them.  I hadn’t heard about previously "purchased (?)" Napster songs > disappearing.  That’s very rude.

iTunes is set up deliberately to work with only the iPod line of music players. I have never used iTunes, but my first test would be to burn the songs from iTunes to CD and then try to rip the CD to MP3 files. If some sort of copy protection is put on the CD, it can usually be worked around by simply turing "auto insert notification" off for your CD-ROM drive. The interesting thing about iTunes is that the files are sent un-protected to you computer. Apple’s copy protection is only added after the song arrives at your computer. A program called PyMusique works in much the same way as the iTunes software, but it does not add the copy protection. That way you can buy songs from iTunes and use them however you want. In Europe, the record industry has indicated that since PyMusique does not actually break any copy protection mechanism (it just snags the songs before they are protected) they don’t think they have ground for prosecution.

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>> I bought one iTunes song.  Then I couldn’t figure out how to get it onto my > Sony NetMD discs, which is about the only device I use for playing music. > players. I have never used iTunes, but my first test would be to burn > the songs from iTunes to CD and then try to rip the CD to MP3 files. If

That was related as a working solution by someone. I don’t want to burn to CD, though.  Even CD-RW seems like a silly extra step to me.  I like my NetMD, and I bought it just before iPod came out, but it seems to be totally abandoned by Sony.  RealPlayer has an addon to write to it, which probebly works with their downloads, but pretty much all I’ve done is copy my CDs to MiniDisc. I think about iPod occasionally.  I also think about a 512MB MP3 player, downloading an occasional assortment from my PC, which becomes just a storehouse for music data, never used to play it.  Then I think about some WiFi gadget to play music at home from the PC storehouse. Then I just stay with what I have — Clarence A Dold – Hidden Valley (Lake County) CA USA  38.8,-122.5

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> > players etc., you get all sorts of license issues. The biggest joke is > the Napster subscription where you can download as much music as you > like. Once you stop paying the monthly fees, the music you already > downloaded will expire! > any ways around that?

Go to the library,  borrow CD’s and rip them at home. — "This notion that the United States is getting ready to attack Iran is simply ridiculous. Having said that, all options are on the table," George Bush, Feb 22 2005 http://www.quantumphilosophy.net/files/clips/TimRyan_Medium.mov http://www.bushflash.com/thanks.html http://www.worldmessenger.20m.com/weapons.html#wms WHY IRAQ?: http://www.angelfire.com/creep/gwbush/remindus.html http://www.toostupidtobepresident.com/shockwave/chickenhawks.htm "Bubba got a BJ, BU$H screwed us all!" – Slim

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> players etc., you get all sorts of license issues. The biggest joke is > the Napster subscription where you can download as much music as you > like. Once you stop paying the monthly fees, the music you already > downloaded will expire!

any ways around that?

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> <RANT> > At less than $1 / song, I’d be very happy to pay for music if it didn’t > come with all sorts of hassles. If I buy a CD I can bring it anywhere I … > </RANT>

I bought one iTunes song.  Then I couldn’t figure out how to get it onto my Sony NetMD discs, which is about the only device I use for playing music. Sony changed music services a couple of times, and I’ve never bought a song from them.  I hadn’t heard about previously "purchased (?)" Napster songs disappearing.  That’s very rude. — — Clarence A Dold – Hidden Valley (Lake County) CA USA  38.8,-122.5

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> isn’t mp4 a "mac" format? usually associated with QuickTime? >> I go to iTunes and download songs for $.99 each, then burn them to >> cd’s. I can get 17-18 on a cd. These are in mp4 format. Also the new >> ‘05 EX’s come with XM radio. > and? > do steros play mp4 format, as well? i can fit about 130 songs on a CD, > encoded at 128kbps.

It is actually M4P, not MP4. MP3 is "MPEG2 Audio Layer 3" (or MPEG1 Audio Layer 3, depending on who you ask, audio layer 3 is virtually identical in MPEG1 and MPEG2), and is an audio compression standard. The MPEG4 standard also allows the use of AAC (Advanced Audio Codec), which has some advantages over MP3. M4A, M4B and M4P are not audio compression standards per se, they are standards for encrypting AAC files. The Apple Ipod has AAC as the preferred audio compression standard, packaged as M4A, M4B or M4P files. In addition, the Ipod will accept MP3 in both the fixed bit rate and variable bit rate varieties, WAV files and a few other formats. <RANT> At less than $1 / song, I’d be very happy to pay for music if it didn’t come with all sorts of hassles. If I buy a CD I can bring it anywhere I want and play it anywhere I want. If I want to make a mixed CD for the car, from CDs I own, I can do it. Don’t know about the legality, but I feel perfectly justified in doing it. If you buy a song on the web the first thing that bites you in the butt is that you can’t play it in the software you have (OK, I still have Win2k and the media player that came with it. It does not support DRM). Every software upgrade causes two problems for every one it fixes, so I am not getting a new media player just so I can pay for music. Then if you want to move your legally purchased music files from one computer to another, copy it to more players etc., you get all sorts of license issues. The biggest joke is the Napster subscription where you can download as much music as you like. Once you stop paying the monthly fees, the music you already downloaded will expire! This world has too many MBA’s. If I should happen to find an MP3 file on the net, I can do with it as I please. No hassles, just a small sting of bad conscience. </RANT> — A very modest collection of Honda tech info can be found at: http://www.geocities.com/ng_randolph

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Yes, it’s a mac format, but you can play them on pc’s as well, or burn them to cd’s and paly in any cd player.

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> has anyone connected an MP3 player to one of these?  The EX sound > system does not seem to have an auxiliary input as far as I can tell. > FM transmitter only?  grrr…

The FM transmitter is far from ideal.   I added a simple audio adapter to my 2003 Honda Civic Hybrid stock in-dash single CD player.  The widget plugs into the 14 pin port used for an external CD changer.  Now "CD Changer Disc 1, track 1" is an external mp3 player.  PIE HON98-AUX Auxiliary Input Converter <http://www.logjamelectronics.com/piehon98aux.html>  $49.95 This has RCA inputs.  I added an RCA-mini cable for $1.50. http://makeashorterlink.com/?B34D15D1A has some installation details. — — Clarence A Dold – Hidden Valley (Lake County) CA USA  38.8,-122.5

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I go to iTunes and download songs for $.99 each, then burn them to cd’s. I can get 17-18 on a cd. These are in mp4 format. Also the new ‘05 EX’s come with XM radio.

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> I go to iTunes and download songs for $.99 each, then burn them to > cd’s. I can get 17-18 on a cd. These are in mp4 format. Also the new > ‘05 EX’s come with XM radio.

and? do steros play mp4 format, as well? i can fit about 130 songs on a CD, encoded at 128kbps.

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isn’t mp4 a "mac" format? usually associated with QuickTime?

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I go to iTunes and download songs for $.99 each, then burn them to > cd’s. I can get 17-18 on a cd. These are in mp4 format. Also the new > ‘05 EX’s come with XM radio. > and? > do steros play mp4 format, as well? i can fit about 130 songs on a CD, > encoded at 128kbps.

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I just bought an old Civic and it came with an Aiwa stereo with an aux input. I connected my Palm Zire 71 to it and it cranks out songs I downloaded to it (errrr…legally archived from my own CD’s, I mean). A quick search for aux input head units shows not a huge selection but not a big markup over standard units. Maybe some of those DVD video units with the little slideout lcd’s can play ripped DVD mp3’s? Burn a disk and head over to Best Buy! – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > has anyone connected an MP3 player to one of these?  The EX sound > system does not seem to have an auxiliary input as far as I can tell. > FM transmitter only?  grrr… > it is beyond me why car manufacturers are still not selling CD changers > with the ability to read DVD MP3s.  the part cost is about $30.  one of > them can store about 50 CDs, so a DVD changer could easily store 600 > CDs, not the 6 that it currently can hold. > /iaw

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the 2005 civic special edition has a 6 disc cd/MP3 player.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->I just bought an old Civic and it came with an Aiwa stereo with an aux > input. I connected my Palm Zire 71 to it and it cranks out songs I > downloaded to it (errrr…legally archived from my own CD’s, I mean). A > quick search for aux input head units shows not a huge selection but > not a big markup over standard units. Maybe some of those DVD video > units with the little slideout lcd’s can play ripped DVD mp3’s? Burn a > disk and head over to Best Buy! > has anyone connected an MP3 player to one of these?  The EX sound > system does not seem to have an auxiliary input as far as I can tell. > FM transmitter only?  grrr… > it is beyond me why car manufacturers are still not selling CD > changers > with the ability to read DVD MP3s.  the part cost is about $30.  one > of > them can store about 50 CDs, so a DVD changer could easily store 600 > CDs, not the 6 that it currently can hold. > /iaw

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has anyone connected an MP3 player to one of these?  The EX sound system does not seem to have an auxiliary input as far as I can tell. FM transmitter only?  grrr… it is beyond me why car manufacturers are still not selling CD changers with the ability to read DVD MP3s.  the part cost is about $30.  one of them can store about 50 CDs, so a DVD changer could easily store 600 CDs, not the 6 that it currently can hold. /iaw

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Hi, 60000 mile maintenance is due for my Honda Civic 2000, 4 door sedan. My question is whether it is advisable to go to a mechanic who has a machine that pressure cleans and fills the Transmission fluids (Colonial Auto, $449) or go to another mechanic (Brown’s auto, $320) who does not have that machine and does it in the regular way. My concern is that the torque lock converter oil will not get changed if it is not pressure cleaned. However, Honda does not say anything about this issue. Also, the pressure clean costs more money. The question is whether it is worth it. Group please help! SB

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> Hi, > 60000 mile maintenance is due for my Honda Civic 2000, 4 door sedan. My > question is whether it is advisable to go to a mechanic who has a machine > that pressure cleans and fills the Transmission fluids (Colonial Auto, $449) > or go to another mechanic (Brown’s auto, $320) who does not have that > machine and does it in the regular way.

what else is involved? thats a lot of $$$. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> My concern is that the torque lock converter oil will not get changed if it > is not pressure cleaned. However, Honda does not say anything about this > issue. Also, the pressure clean costs more money. The question is whether it > is worth it. > Group please help! > SB

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Sounds to me like you’re getting ripped off. The local Honda dealer here charges 150 for full tranny service. They also use compressed air to empty the fluid from the ATF cooler and T.C.. Takes them 25 minutes. As SoCalMike asked, what else is involved? Full 60k service, tranny fluid change included? – Justin

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Hi, > 60000 mile maintenance is due for my Honda Civic 2000, 4 door sedan. My > question is whether it is advisable to go to a mechanic who has a machine > that pressure cleans and fills the Transmission fluids (Colonial Auto, $449) > or go to another mechanic (Brown’s auto, $320) who does not have that > machine and does it in the regular way. > My concern is that the torque lock converter oil will not get changed if it > is not pressure cleaned. However, Honda does not say anything about this > issue. Also, the pressure clean costs more money. The question is whether it > is worth it. > Group please help! > SB

does your driving qualify as extreme service?  if not, don’t waste your money.  the fluid’s good for 120,000 miles in normal service.  taking it to the /wrong/ service station & getting contamination from incorrect fluid residues are far more of a risk than leaving "old" fluid in there.

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It involves full 60 k service including all the fluids except the brake fluids. They said they will flush the coolant which takes care of the radiator and the heat core. Also, they will change the oil and the filter, AT fluid, fuel filter, spark plugs. Also, general inspection. So should I do it piece by piece? Some of the things like the air filter etc. I changed myself and do not need to be changed. I wanted to do it from one of the AAA authorized people to get my coupon work! SB – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Sounds to me like you’re getting ripped off. The local Honda dealer > here charges 150 for full tranny service. They also use compressed air > to empty the fluid from the ATF cooler and T.C.. Takes them 25 minutes. > As SoCalMike asked, what else is involved? Full 60k service, tranny > fluid change included? > – Justin

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> It involves full 60 k service including all the fluids except the brake

brake/clutch fluids, IMO are some of the most important. old fluid picks up water from the air and helps promote rust. i change mine every 3 years, along with the coolant, plugs, air filter, oil/filter (if needed at the time. the fuel filter should last a lifetime. > fluids. They said they will flush the coolant which takes care of the > radiator and the heat core. Also, they will change the oil and the filter, > AT fluid, fuel filter, spark plugs. Also, general inspection. > So should I do it piece by piece? Some of the things like the air filter > etc. I changed myself and do not need to be changed. > I wanted to do it from one of the AAA authorized people to get my coupon > work!

is your dealer AAA authorized? – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> SB >Sounds to me like you’re getting ripped off. The local Honda dealer >here charges 150 for full tranny service. They also use compressed air >to empty the fluid from the ATF cooler and T.C.. Takes them 25 minutes. >As SoCalMike asked, what else is involved? Full 60k service, tranny >fluid change included? >- Justin

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Yes, they are AAA approved. SB

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> It involves full 60 k service including all the fluids except the brake > brake/clutch fluids, IMO are some of the most important. old fluid picks > up water from the air and helps promote rust. i change mine every 3 > years, along with the coolant, plugs, air filter, oil/filter (if needed > at the time. the fuel filter should last a lifetime. > fluids. They said they will flush the coolant which takes care of the > radiator and the heat core. Also, they will change the oil and the filter, > AT fluid, fuel filter, spark plugs. Also, general inspection. > So should I do it piece by piece? Some of the things like the air filter > etc. I changed myself and do not need to be changed. > I wanted to do it from one of the AAA authorized people to get my coupon > work! > is your dealer AAA authorized? > SB >>Sounds to me like you’re getting ripped off. The local Honda dealer >>here charges 150 for full tranny service. They also use compressed air >>to empty the fluid from the ATF cooler and T.C.. Takes them 25 minutes. >>As SoCalMike asked, what else is involved? Full 60k service, tranny >>fluid change included? >>- Justin

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>I just got a 2005 Accord EX V6 to replace my 2002, which had its >transmission replaced last year. >I am noticing some strange behavior from the new transmission, >particularly a very noticable downshift when slowing down. >No doubt I am sensitive to transmission issues due to the problems >with my 2002. Has Honda finally fixed the transmission issues on the >Accord, or are the latest models also susceptible?

Our 2003 EX V6 transmission has been flawless for 30.000 miles. Unless Honda has gone backward, I would think your transmission should be the same.

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>I just got a 2005 Accord EX V6 to replace my 2002, which had its > transmission replaced last year. > I am noticing some strange behavior from the new transmission, > particularly a very noticable downshift when slowing down.

Honda’s algorithm for shifting the transmission is pretty sophisticated and even includes a sensor for up-hill,down-hill.  Probably you are just noticing the transmission downshifting which is a normal part of this algorithm. However, I am certainly not convinced that Honda has solved it’s transmission durability problems.  Only time will tell. John

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> I just got a 2005 Accord EX V6 to replace my 2002, which had its > transmission replaced last year. > I am noticing some strange behavior from the new transmission, > particularly a very noticable downshift when slowing down. > No doubt I am sensitive to transmission issues due to the problems > with my 2002. Has Honda finally fixed the transmission issues on the > Accord, or are the latest models also susceptible?

My new 2005 Civic EX does this too.  Never happened with the ‘04 CRV.  It appears to me that if I am braking hard to slow down, the tranny will aggressively downshift to assist.  I think it’s normal. Of course, the slip from 3rd to 4th that happens sometimes isn’t…

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I just got a 2005 Accord EX V6 to replace my 2002, which had its transmission replaced last year. I am noticing some strange behavior from the new transmission, particularly a very noticable downshift when slowing down. No doubt I am sensitive to transmission issues due to the problems with my 2002. Has Honda finally fixed the transmission issues on the Accord, or are the latest models also susceptible?

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yeah I used anti seize compound on my 96 accord and it seized up the rf caliper pin.  I ended up replaced both calipers after a few years.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I’m the 2nd owner of a 4 door Accord 4 cyl a/t LX w/116k miles on it. On > a > very light stop the front brakes cause a little vibration shimmy through > the > steering wheel. Anything harder than that and it is very bad. Since this > is > my first Honda (already did the timing belt-whew!) is it best to get the > new > rotors through Honda or is aftermarket just as good? What about pads > recommendations (since I’m in their)?Are there any special tools I should > buy before doing this job to make it easier? I usually do all my own work > and while I’m in there what other parts should I replace or consider > replacing. How many hours will it take a backyard mechanic to do (have > brake > exp on Nissan, Chry and Ford)? > Thanks > Greyhound > Tampa, FL > You need to make sure it’s the rotors first.  Sticking calipers will > turn normal amounts of warpage into severe shaking.  Sometimes it’s just > a matter of cleaning the shafts and putting the proper type of grease on > them. > Make sure it’s exactly what Honda says to use.  The all-purpose, > all-car, superior formula caliper grease that I bought at a Kragen > seized the calipers on my Civic so badly that it was barely drivable.  I > put on 100% pure silicone grease like the manual said and they worked > perfectly.

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I’m the 2nd owner of a 4 door Accord 4 cyl a/t LX w/116k miles on it. On a very light stop the front brakes cause a little vibration shimmy through the steering wheel. Anything harder than that and it is very bad. Since this is my first Honda (already did the timing belt-whew!) is it best to get the new rotors through Honda or is aftermarket just as good? What about pads recommendations (since I’m in their)?Are there any special tools I should buy before doing this job to make it easier? I usually do all my own work and while I’m in there what other parts should I replace or consider replacing. How many hours will it take a backyard mechanic to do (have brake exp on Nissan, Chry and Ford)? Thanks Greyhound Tampa, FL

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> I’m the 2nd owner of a 4 door Accord 4 cyl a/t LX w/116k miles on it. On a > very light stop the front brakes cause a little vibration shimmy through the > steering wheel. Anything harder than that and it is very bad. Since this is > my first Honda (already did the timing belt-whew!) is it best to get the new > rotors through Honda or is aftermarket just as good? What about pads > recommendations (since I’m in their)?Are there any special tools I should > buy before doing this job to make it easier? I usually do all my own work > and while I’m in there what other parts should I replace or consider > replacing. How many hours will it take a backyard mechanic to do (have brake > exp on Nissan, Chry and Ford)? > Thanks > Greyhound > Tampa, FL

You need to make sure it’s the rotors first.  Sticking calipers will turn normal amounts of warpage into severe shaking.  Sometimes it’s just a matter of cleaning the shafts and putting the proper type of grease on them. Make sure it’s exactly what Honda says to use.  The all-purpose, all-car, superior formula caliper grease that I bought at a Kragen seized the calipers on my Civic so badly that it was barely drivable.  I put on 100% pure silicone grease like the manual said and they worked perfectly.

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I don’t really think there is a difference in Honda rotors verses a good name brand like Bendix or Raybestos etc. The thing about the 96 accord is that in order to remove the rotor you have to remove the brake caliper and bracket assembly.  Then you have to remove the cv shaft from the hub and disconnect the lower ball joint.  There are then 4 12mm headed bolts ( I think they are 12mm heads) from behind the rotor assembly.  Then the hub can be removed and the pancake type rotor removed.   The hard parts are removing the ball joint without f ing up the dust boot, unless you have the right tool, and removing the cv shaft unless you have the correct nut/breaker bar.   I have done it a couple times on both sides of my 96 accord but I am not sure about the hours required.  I would say a few hours, about 3-4 for both. Just a guess since it has been so long.  If you have all the right tools  then maybe 2 hours.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I’m the 2nd owner of a 4 door Accord 4 cyl a/t LX w/116k miles on it. On a > very light stop the front brakes cause a little vibration shimmy through > the steering wheel. Anything harder than that and it is very bad. Since > this is my first Honda (already did the timing belt-whew!) is it best to > get the new rotors through Honda or is aftermarket just as good? What > about pads recommendations (since I’m in their)?Are there any special > tools I should buy before doing this job to make it easier? I usually do > all my own work and while I’m in there what other parts should I replace > or consider replacing. How many hours will it take a backyard mechanic to > do (have brake exp on Nissan, Chry and Ford)? > Thanks > Greyhound > Tampa, FL

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Check the upper ball joints before you fix the rotors. -Pete – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > I’m the 2nd owner of a 4 door Accord 4 cyl a/t LX w/116k miles on it. On a > very light stop the front brakes cause a little vibration shimmy through the > steering wheel. Anything harder than that and it is very bad. Since this is > my first Honda (already did the timing belt-whew!) is it best to get the new > rotors through Honda or is aftermarket just as good? What about pads > recommendations (since I’m in their)?Are there any special tools I should > buy before doing this job to make it easier? I usually do all my own work > and while I’m in there what other parts should I replace or consider > replacing. How many hours will it take a backyard mechanic to do (have brake > exp on Nissan, Chry and Ford)? > Thanks > Greyhound > Tampa, FL

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